REPAIRING A NO POWER FAULT IN THE DELONGHI MAGNIFICA ECAM 3.110.SB（德龙）

德龙ESAM2600咖啡机维修

以下为参考资料：

How to resolve this issue without replacing the power board.

No POWER, This is a very common issue in this Delonghi model. The new Power Boards no longer have the old fashioned iron core transformer but instead utilise a switch mode power supply, which are prone to power spikes. I often find this issue associated with a stuck infuser.
You should be reading this if you have gone to switch on your Delonghi magnifica and its dead, no power, no little red lights. You have checked everything, and you did pay the power bill? so its true the coffee machine has died. And if you have nothing to do next weekend, read on.

Now the easy solution, other than buying a new machine, is to order a new board from Delonghi, but this story is all about the hard solution. Why,? cause when you do hundreds like I do, its quicker than waiting weeks for the board to arrive and a lot cheaper for my customer. And its’s easy when you do it a lot, anyway it’s always the same 3 components at fault. The picture below is for those of you who doubt that it’s always the same 3 components. That’s some of the components I have replaced this year.

For this exercise you will need a soldering iron, the replacement components, purchased from me and preferably a hot air resoldering station. And good eyes or a magnifier. By the way the 3 components are, 1. 47 ohm 1 Watt or higher resistor, 2. Inductor, replaced with a 13 ohm, quarter watt resistor, a Link 364GN power supply chip. This thing is a power supply, outputting low voltages from higher voltages in a single chip and its fragile. They only use it as it reduces space on the PCB and is cheap. It’s the cause of many failures in modern appliances.

First thing is to identify the faulty components and remove them. See picture one showing the components. Note the blown inductor marked L1, this is common to see the stuffing coming out of this one. The big power resistor R55, will be open circuit. It looks fine but remove it and meter it, its open circuit. And then there is the Link chip, marked U1.

The photo below shows the 3 suspect components removed. I am not going into detail about how to remove these or replace them. This post is just about identifying them. if you suspect your machine may have a board fault that fits this scenario, remove and test the large power resistor. if its open circuit there is no doubt. You can also test the link chip, but thats another story. I hope this helped.